Retaining Wall Using Concrete Block
We build concrete block retaining walls to necessary standards so that our retaining walls stand the test of time without sagging or bowing from the pressure of the dirt behind it. Each wall is custom built, based on the customer’s needs.
We’ll emove the existing retainer wall, and then remove dirt as needed from the existing dirt bank to make room for the new wall. Once that is complete we dig a footing the full length of the proposed retainer wall. The footing is to be extra wide for stability and resistant to side pressure created by the dirt we are trying to retain.
Then we’ll install horizontal and vertical rebar in the footing, this links the wall and the footing together making it a one piece structure. The wall needs to have block webbing every 3rd course of blocks for structural support. It will also have pilasters built in every 10 feet unless there is a corner already in the wall within that distance.
In our walls we install rebar in and solid fill every 2nd cavity of the wall, then install cap blocks over the top of the wall.
No matter the size of your wall you need replacing, we can help. Many of our clients want to replace wood retaining walls with more durable materials, and we can help with that too.
To the right is a typical wall under construction; the wide area at the base of the wall is the extra wide footing required for a wall this high. Also there will be a cap block put on the top.
This landscape timber wall to the right looked good when installed but its life expectancy is only 10 to 14 years.
Retaining Walls Made of Wood
The process always begins by assessing what kind of wall we’ll be building, and what kind of the wall the client needs based on budget, durability, and longevity. We’ll then remove the existing wall that is failing.
We shape the dirt bank to be retained with a slight bevel inward so retaining timbers can be properly placed, and dig a footing as level as possible along the full length of the proposed wall. Dig cut-outs in the dirt bank next to the proposed wall every 8 feet for the wall anchors.
Lay the retaining timbers end to end along the length of the proposed wall.
We lay the next course on top of the previous layer of with a slight setback so the wall will be beveled inward by about an inch for each course of timbers or about one inch setback for every 8 inches of height, and we repeat this procedure until the desired height of the wall is attained.
In all our wood retaining walls we install ground anchors every 8 linear feet of the wall for additional stability.
This wall to the right is preferred when extreme pressure may be against the wall at times, and it is not effected by vibration or light impact.
Here we’re digging a footing 28 inches wide and fill with #57 gravel, lay the first course of blocks and install a 4 inch perforated flexible drain behind the wall and exit the drain at both ends or every 50 feet whichever is closer.
Allen Block Retaining Walls
Allen blocks are fantastic design elements and make great and long lasting retaining walls.
Retaining walls are normally in a straight line, but are often made with rounding curves and sometimes with steps built in or most any configuration that a person wants. Regardless of the configuration of the wall, the blocks are designed withhold and retain the dirt behind them. The same guarantee is valid regardless of the configuration of the wall.
- Remove any obstacles or debris in the way of installing a new “Allen Block” wall.
- Dig a trench 28 inches wide and at least 12 inches deep, down to hard undisturbed soil.
- Install #57 gravel in the trench, and pack with a plate compactor, it can be a heavy manual or a power plate compactor.
We’ll then install the first row of blocks and place dirt in front of this row only to prevent them from movement while and until the wall is started.
A 4-inch perforated drain is placed behind the first course of blocks. The drain pipe must exit at each end of the wall and if the wall is over 50 feet a fitted drain will be cut through the blocks. Place mesh wire or other obstruction at the end of the drain to prevent rodent infestation into the drain.
Fill the first course of blocks and 12 inches behind the blocks with # 57 gravel and any remaining area between the gravel and the dirt embankment with soil, pack the gravel inside the blocks with a shovel handle and the gravel and dirt behind the blocks with a plate compactor. Install each succeeding course of blocks in the same manner. Do this every 8 inches of depth, filling and packing must occur with every course of blocks. Lay and attach the cap blocks using “Allen Block Adhesive.”
If the wall is to be placed on a hillside where there will be a sloping grade below there must be an engineer’s report detailing exactly how to configure the wall, the size of footing, and any other details needed to install a wall on a hillside.
Contact us with the info below or submit the contact form.
3009 Mount Paran Church Road
Monroe, GA 30655