Adding a new floor joist or an LVL alongside the existing joist sometimes makes good sense. Some examples of the need for a new floor joist or LVL alongside the existing Joists are: When the floor above the damaged joist would be too expensive or no desire to remove the floor covering to nail in the new joists. When the old joist is termite damaged, water damaged, too small to carry the load placed on it, broken, or in any way compromised. All new joists should be installed full length and nailed or bolted to the existing joist and install proper hangers or fasteners on each end of the joist.
Floor Joists that are Missing or Damaged
These floor joists are put in full length, where possible, segmenting the lengths diminishes the strength of the joists. Re-route or remove water, sewage, electric, and heat and air ducts that are in the way of performing this task. We will replace the water, and electric as needed, the sewage and the heat & air will need to be done by others at owners expense.
Install temporary shoring under all the joist system where we will install or sister onto the floor joists and jack the floors up so the new straight floor joists will fit and go in straight. Remove the temporary shoring after the new joists are in place. Attach each end of the new floor joist in the same manner as new work.
If the upper portion of the old joist is good it is best to leave it in place and sister onto it because it is usually firmly attached to the floor system. If the old joists are left in, attach the new joist to the old joist using 16d CC nails or small bolts.
Floor Joist Systems that Need Extra Bridging Blocks
If a girder beam is not feasible or applicable to the location then 2 rows of bridging blocks is the 2nd best method of stopping the bouncy or shaky floors. From under the floor, using temporary beams and jacks, jack the floor up to a straight position. Individually cut each bridging block to fit between the joists that they are intended for.
Nail the bridging blocks between the joists using 3 nails in each end of each bridging block. Do this in a staggered pattern the full length of the room.
This applies to each bridging block in each row.
Crawlspace Rim-Joist & Bandboard Replacement
Water damage and rot appears can be extensive on some joists, especially those that are subject to weather. These happen over a long period of time. The current repairs or condition does not meet standard construction practices, and these joists need replacement.
We brace the floor joist system under the nearby floor joists using 4×6’s as temporary lateral supports or beams.
Place hydraulic jacks under the 4×6’s and jack the floors and walls above up to their original position so the bandboard can be installed.
Remove the portion of the existing bandboard that we will replace.
Place small specially designed jacks under the outside wall and jack it up to its original height.
Install a new pressure treated, cut to fit, bandboard under the outside wall.
Attach and secure the existing floor joists and bottom plate to the new bandboard.
Install or affix a new bond timber under the ends of the floor joists and onto the new bandboard.
Or if bond timbers are not appropriate use joist hangers.
Install steel or double concrete blocks under the outside band as needed. The footings are dug down to hard ground at least 20”x20” wide and 12” deep and we install re-bar in a criss-cross manner 3 inches off the bottom of the footing.
Install pressure treated shims between the top of the concrete block columns and the girder beam or the main beam.
Replace or repair any damage to the siding, bricks, blocks, or foundation we cause.
Bandboards or rim-joists are part of the floor joist system. It is the board, (usually a double 2×10), that extends around the perimeter of the house. This is the board that the outside wall sets on. When bandboards need replacing they are replaced using pressure treated lumber that is resistant to insects and wood rot.
This is probably the best floor joist system ever designed so long as it is not overloaded or broken.
Truss System Floor Joists That Have Been Overloaded Or Have Deflection For Other Reasons:
Truss system floor joists also require attention from time to time, due to age, or due to the fact that they’ve been consistently overloaded. Our work on them is as follows:
Remove the sheetrock or other material if any from the ceiling. The floor system is constructed using a factory engineered truss system.
This system is very good up and until it is overloaded, but when that happens it is a more detailed and time consuming operation than regular floor joists to correct.
Below is a detailed account of the normal structural engineered way of repairing an overloaded truss:
- Protect the floor either by removing the carpet or covering whatever is on the floor.
- Re-route or remove water, sewage, electric, and heat and air ducts that are in the way of performing this task.
- We will replace the water, and electric as needed, the sewage and the heat & air will need to be done by others at owners expense
- Place a jack on the floor and jack poles between the jack and a 2×8 that is placed under the floor and beside the truss.
- Do this between each of the trusses where the floor if sagging.
- Jack the entire affected area up to a level position.
- Spread liquid nail or other suitable glue on the side of the truss just before applying the plywood.
- Place “cut to fit” 5/8’s or 3/4 plywood on one side of the truss.
- Using 2 inch screws attach the plywood to the truss.
The screws are to be every 8 to 10 inches along the bottom of the truss, and the same along the top of the truss, and 2 screws in each of the webbing struts.
Remove all temporary jacks and shoring, replace drywall as needed and match to original aesthetics.
Contact us with the info below or submit the contact form.
3009 Mount Paran Church Road
Monroe, GA 30655