Retaining Walls 

Retaining Wall Using Concrete Block

We build concrete block retaining walls to necessary standards so that our retaining walls stand the test of time without sagging or bowing from the pressure of the dirt behind it. Each wall is custom built, based on the customer’s needs.

We’ll emove the existing retainer wall, and then remove dirt as needed from the existing dirt bank to make room for the new wall. Once that is complete we dig a footing the full length of the proposed retainer wall.  The footing is to be extra wide for stability and resistant to side pressure created by the dirt we are trying to retain.

Then we’ll install horizontal and vertical rebar in the footing, this links the wall and the footing together making it a one piece structure.  The wall needs to have block webbing every 3^rd course of blocks for structural support.  It will also have pilasters built in every 10 feet unless there is a corner already in the wall within that distance.

In our walls we install rebar in and solid fill every 2^nd cavity of the wall, then install cap blocks over the top of the wall.

No matter the size of your wall you need replacing, we can help.  Many of our clients want to replace wood retaining walls with more durable materials, and we can help with that too.

Allen Block Retaining Walls

Allen blocks are fantastic design elements and make great and long lasting retaining walls.

Retaining walls are normally in a straight line, but are often made with rounding curves and sometimes with steps built in or most any configuration that a person wants. Regardless of the configuration of the wall, the blocks are designed withhold and retain the dirt behind them. The same guarantee is valid regardless of the configuration of the wall.

• Remove any obstacles or debris in the way of installing a new     “Allen Block” wall.
• Dig a trench 28 inches wide and at least 12 inches deep, down to hard undisturbed soil.
• Install #57 gravel in the trench, and pack with a plate compactor, it can be a heavy manual or a power plate compactor.

We’ll then install the first row of blocks and place dirt in front of this row only to prevent them from movement while and until the wall is started.

A 4-inch perforated drain is placed behind the first course of blocks. The drain pipe must exit at each end of the wall and if the wall is over 50 feet a fitted drain will be cut through the blocks. Place mesh wire or other obstruction at the end of the drain to prevent rodent infestation into the drain.

Fill the first course of blocks and 12 inches behind the blocks with # 57 gravel and any remaining area between the gravel and the dirt embankment with soil, pack the gravel inside the blocks with a shovel handle and the gravel and dirt behind the blocks with a plate compactor.  Install each succeeding course of blocks in the same manner. Do this every 8 inches of depth, filling and packing must occur with every course of blocks. Lay and attach the cap blocks using “Allen Block Adhesive.”

If the wall is to be placed on a hillside where there will be a sloping grade below there must be an engineer’s report detailing exactly how to configure the wall, the size of footing, and any other details needed to install a wall on a hillside.